When it comes to hair extension installation, whether it be tape-in extensions, wefts, or fusion extensions, think of it as a time-intensive process that deserves proper prep – just like any major beauty transformation. You wouldn't want to skip the prep, right? So, before installation day, it’s crucial to get the client ready by guiding them on how to prep their hair for the extensions. We had a chat with Mallory (Lane) Chafins ( @mallorylanesalon) from Mallory Lane Salon & Gallery to get the inside scoop on hair extension care, and tips for transforming unruly hair into the perfect canvas for extensions.
What Does Extension-Ready Hair Look Like?
Before the appointment, make sure your client’s natural hair is in a healthy condition for hair extensions:
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- Cleaned and product-free. No hair gels, sprays, or leave-in products
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Dry to the touch
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Tangle-free (this is essential for a smooth install)
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Smooth—not brittle
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Full and strong enough to support the weight of the extensions
This will prevent issues like premature slippage, breakage, or even shedding of natural hair. If the hair is flaky, greasy, or generally unclean, the extension bond or tape won’t form securely, and slippage becomes much more likely. Similarly, tangled or brittle hair will cause breakage during the hair extension installation, while weak, thin hair may lead to shedding.
Recommendations To Tell Your Client for Hair Extension Installation
For most clients, a little standard upkeep combined with our classic pre-installation hair routine is all it takes to get the hair in perfect shape for the big day. Here’s what you can recommend:
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Vitamins: maintain overall health by getting the right vitamins, minerals, and water. Good nutrition is the foundation of healthy hair growth.
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Hair Washing: When it comes to washing the hair, remind your client not to overdo it. It’s best to wash based on their hair type, but once the hair extensions are in, they can swap out some washes for dry shampoo to keep things fresh without stripping the natural oils.
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Brushing: Encourage them to brush gently with a boar hair bristle brush for that smooth, tangle-free feel. They can also use a special wide tooth comb.
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Hair Styling: If they love styling, suggest minimizing heat and heavy manipulation. The more they go easy on the styling tools, the stronger their natural hair stays.
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Protection: Tell your clients to protect their hair during activities like swimming, exercising, or even sleeping.
Pre-Installation Routine in the Salon
- Start by clarifying the roots with a sulfate-free clarifying shampoo.
- Condition the mid-lengths and ends to keep them smooth and manageable, ensuring no frizz or dryness.
- Brush through the hair to make sure it’s completely tangle-free—we don’t want any knots getting in the way during installation.
- Let the hair dry naturally. Mallory puts it perfectly: "The client should come in with freshly clarified hair that is free of product and only conditioned from the midshaft down."
It’s not necessary for your client to straighten their natural hair before hair extension installation, but if they choose to, make sure they avoid using any heat protectant on the root area. It’s key to cover all these steps during the consultation phase, so your client knows exactly what to expect. Plus, take a good look at their hair during the consultation—you want to be sure it’s in the best shape possible for the extensions. “Healthy, install-ready hair is determined by a thorough consultation,” says Mallory. “We invite every client curious about extensions to a complimentary consultation, where we discuss their lifestyle, hair care routine, concerns, desires, and desired results.”
Hair Installation Process in Different Hair Types
Greasy Hair
Greasy (but otherwise healthy) hair requires a bit more attention before the hair extension installation. Be sure to clarify the hair thoroughly—ideally right before the appointment to prevent the hair from getting greasy again after washing at home. No conditioner is needed for this hair type.
Dry Hair
For dry (but otherwise healthy) hair, treat it just like ordinary healthy hair. Clarify a day before the extension installation and focus on conditioning the mid-lengths to ends.
Conditioner is a must for this hair type, and make sure the client detangles their hair in the shower. If there are any flakes, use a boar hair bristle brush to gently remove them—doing this as you part and section the hair helps keep things smooth. Dry hair generally requires fewer washes, so your client may be able to skip the dry shampoo. However, if dandruff or flakiness is an issue, direct them to our blog for extra tips.
Thin Hair
Thin (but otherwise healthy) hair requires a slightly different approach. Clarify the hair but skip the conditioner, as fine hair can often get oily faster. For this hair type, choosing the right installation method and hair extension quantity is more important than specific aftercare. Still, it’s a good idea to schedule move-up appointments closer together to prevent slippage.
Bleached, Colored or Damaged Hair
Bleached, colored, and/or porous hair needs extra care. If the hair is still reasonably healthy, recommend a deep-conditioning regimen leading up to installation—especially washing in cold water for the week before.
Then, clarify the roots and condition the mid-lengths and ends the day before installation. For clients with more structural damage, a heavier-duty rehabilitation program is needed before installing extensions.
Mallory shares her approach: “If a client's hair is too short or damaged for extensions, I recommend treatments like Olaplex or deep conditioning until their hair is strong enough. I also suggest laying off heat styling for a few weeks, though extensions can actually help repair the natural hair while they wear them.”
After installation, clients with damaged hair should continue using deep-conditioning treatments or masks below the bond area to keep both their natural and extension hair supple and moisturized.
Natural Hair
Natural hair that is actively thinning should be approached with extra care. If the thinning is part of a natural, gradual process—something that’s expected and happens at a steady pace—then extensions can generally be installed with little risk. However, it’s important to inform the client that shedding or strand loss is more likely, and they may need move-up appointments more frequently to maintain the look.
How Do You Determine a Hair Care Routine for Your Client?
Creating a personalized hair care routine for your client is all about understanding their unique needs. You’ll want to dive deep into their current hair care routine and styling habits but also get a full picture of their lifestyle—things like their health, diet, stress levels, and daily schedule. You might also want to provide a Holy Grail salon policy, highlighting key hair care rules like using sulfate-free products, investing in the right brush, and other essential guidelines.
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Many thanks to Mallory for providing her specialist insight! To learn about her salon and her hair extension practice, visit her website and Instagram page today!
Mallory (Lane) Chafins